Haute couture collections are, by their very nature, a cut above the rest. And for S/S 2012 it was literally the designers’ time to shine, with shimmer and sparkle radiating from many collections. Intricate details, the sophisticated glint of metallics, encrusted crystal and glittering sequins announced the re-introduction of radiant sparkle.

While most great artists have a blue period – Picasso, for example – Karl Lagerfeld appeared to embrace his own inner blues, reaching for the stars with a collection that was perfectly in tune with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS’ innovations in Denim Blue and Crystal Petrol pearl. Twinkling fabrics for floor-length skirts, lean silhouettes and sparkly short shifts caressed the senses as they dazzled on their way down the catwalk.

The king of ‘red carpet-ready’, Elie Saab, did not disappoint, with details that included delicate crystal beading, sugary sorbet pastels, and pretty party dresses. All-over embellishment was the order of the day, keeping Elie Saab firmly in the spotlight.

Elie Saab:

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Bill Gaytten for Christian Dior took inspiration from the archives, presenting nipped-in waists, full skirts and subtly gleaming detailing. Originally this look for Christian Dior heralded the end of austerity and was a blunt response to the lack of materials during the war – this collection appears perfectly timed to deliver the same message.

Dior:

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Valentino showcased a breathtakingly beautiful collection of delicate florals and barely-there color, while Donatella Versace marked her return to the runways with a futuristic metallic take and sporty brights. Jean Paul Gaultier paid tribute to the late Amy Winehouse with ’50s inspired ensembles and beehive hairdos. Black mixed with pops of electric color or in toned-down neutrals showcased corsetry detailing and full ’50s skirts.

Versace:

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Jean Paul Gaultier:

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Maison Martin Margiela opted for shine in crushed gold materials with an out-of-this-world design element, while Giambattista Valli’s collection heralded vintage couture, featuring a glamorous hourglass shape and feminine florals.Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy opted for a long, lean sophisticated approach, which made the back a focal point.
Stéphane Roland showcased a beautifully constructed collection centred around bold black, white and eye-popping red.
Zuhair Murad was all old-school evening elegance, with glistening sparkle and some corsetry detailing to bring a modern touch.

Giambattista Valli:

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Givenchy:

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Georges Hobeika opted for sugary, soft pastels and ornate feather details to create an ethereal lady-like aura.
Whether for day or evening, if these collections are anything to go by, bling is on its way back – whether crystal, sequins or metallic – to showcase a new up-dated and refreshed look. And you can be certain that where these designers lead, the market is sure to follow.

Alexandre Vauthier:

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Basil Soda:

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On Aura Tout Vu:

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Yiqing Yin:

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