With catwalks awash with lace, leather, crystals, and body-con cutting, this season’s sparkling haute couture collections certainly banished the winter blues.
Saab is Hollywood’s go-to for maximum glamour and glitz. Here, he alternated between dresses in demure, Fifties knee-length silhouettes and flowing maxi styles. Sticking to block colors from ice blue, spice red, and nude, to soft gray and black, each piece showed off his intricate use of lace and crystals in delicate embellishment, guaranteed to bring out any woman’s inner A-lister.
The delicious Donatella presented a fiercely OTT, high-octane power collection. Imagine sharply cut suiting edged with striking gold hardware (think Michael Jackson-esque epaulettes) and bright yellow, lamé-striped fur mini dresses. And if that’s not enough to make your heart flutter, consider her pale pink leather biker jackets glistening with crystals, and hot pink slashed-to-the-thigh, body-con goddess gowns. Wallflowers need certainly not apply.
With only one look that wasn’t in black, the woman here is a cool, collected and daring party queen. Slender-cut, cropped trousers were paired with silk-edged tuxedo jackets, and slash-through-the-front tops appeared alongside sparkling mini dresses with risqué, wide-open backs. This was a seriously glamorous collection, the ultimate in cocktail chic.
On aura tout vu
Combining leather, fur, lace, strikingly colored crystals, and clear PVC, this was a resolutely modern take on haute couture. Think shimmering white lamé jumpsuits embellished with giant, black crystal beetles, to clear plastic macs worn over multi-hued body suits and paired with huge black crystal collars. The duo certainly lived up to their label’s name: ‘You think you’ve seen it all.’
Beatrice Mulder Ferrant
Favoring a bold approach to print and color, this show brought together bright blues, reds, and purples. Large baroque prints on bold red and black pencil-skirt-and-top combinations were shown alongside sculpted cocktail dresses shot through with colored slashes, and pieces embellished with kooky silver squares scattered with colored gems. This was a riot of a show—pure fashion power!
A collection crammed with many fascinating ideas, the final look, with its oversized hip details and block nude folds and embellishments, felt both Elizabethan and yet strangely minimalist. But there was color in the delicate mauve jackets with subtly embedded crystals, gold and silver beaded works of art, and interesting masculine elements consisting of enormous neck ties layered over pastel-printed, cropped and highly tailored boleros.
Pictures: courtesy of Collezioni